
Mike Lee, Editor |
Alive and Strong
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The Secretary of the Department of Agriculture released the growth figures for 2009 of the number of Farmers' Markets in America. During a year when unemployment rose to an unprecedented high and companies — in fact whole industries — are failing in this country, more than 700 farmers' markets started for the first time. That represents a 13% increase over 2008 — a truly astonishing figure. There are now 5274 Farmers' Markets in America. Last year there were 4685.
Why is this happening? What are the trends that point to such growth? What message does
such growth deliver to Americans — consumers, growers, communities around the
country? And what does the future hold? It is clear that supporting sustainable food
sources is having an impact on the economy and the health of this nation.
We have been saying for a long time that food grown and harvested close to where we
live just tastes better. Have you tasted a ripe peach grown in a nearby orchard and
sold at the market the day after it was plucked from its tree? It is so juicy and sweet
that it just makes your taste buds tingle. Spend time with each bite. Savor every
morsel. It doesn't get any better than this.
Of course you can find such food in a grocery store. So why aren't grocery stores
flourishing the same way? I think it has to do with the atmosphere of farmers' markets
and the dedication of growers. When was the last time you asked your grocer about the
food he puts on display? At farmers' markets you can ask when it was picked, what was
in the soil that helped it grow, how to prepare it and how long it will be available.
And, while you are there, you'll also see your friends, hear some musicians, buy
flowers or some wool and taste the local specialties. This atmosphere which regulars
take for granted but newbies consider a wonder and pleasure, is the essence of farmers
market's attraction. People want to be close to their food source — to get to
know each other through regular contact. CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture) are
also growing, so it's not only the atmosphere of farmers' markets — it's the
convenience of having seasonal produce readily available that attracts a growing (no
pun intended) number of passionate consumers.
As a photographer/videographer, I find the displays of food at a farmers' market to be
an important attractor. The passion of the grower is reflected in the beauty of their
display. Vendors rise early on market day — sometimes 3 or 4am — to drive
to the market after a day of harvesting, cleaning, packing and preparing for the
market. Once they arrive, they set up their booth — fending off the early
arrivals — to create their abundant displays. And then the crowds arrive. The
growers enthusiastically greet their regulars and share their bounty. Each dollar gives
them reason to celebrate. Farming as a life-style takes real courage and has many
risks. The rewards are often expressed in the congruency of their lifestyle with their
soul search and financial returns the market brings. But after a day at the market,
they are tired and hungry.
Here are some trends we see at exemplary farmers' markets around the country:
Fresh food from a local source has become fashionable. The Farmers' Market in Hollywood
attracts movie stars and their families because these people know they can buy the
freshest best tasting food from the growers who sell there. Being fashionable has the
potential of changing behaviors but it also has the potential downside of becoming
unfashionable — of losing its attraction. So there's a trend to make farmers'
markets more than just fashionable. Those that are really successful have become
destinations for families looking for something to do on a Saturday morning. They have
chef demonstrations, musical entertainment, playgrounds and even yoga sessions. These
"extras" make market day special. And this trend will continue. Families need to eat
and to have something to look forward to. Farmers' Markets satisfy both.
Communities are looking for ways to revitalize their shopping districts — to
bring in more customers who are ready to buy. Buying from a local source has real value
because there is a personal connection. The store owner may even know your name. Local
sourcing allows us to return to simpler more personal interactions while helping the
local economy. Farmers' Markets attract customers who like to shop local. And after
they visit and buy at the market, they spend the day shopping. Such an economic
stimulus is vital to community-owned and operated enterprises. It can revitalize the
town. Store owners increase their revenues during the days the farmers' markets are
open. That is a fact. This trend will continue.
Returning to the land has been a trend that is beginning to take hold. Our increasingly
electronic world has taken something away from our connection to the earth and nature.
So we are taking it back, in huge numbers on a weekly basis. In addition to greater
numbers of people growing their own gardens, more people are shopping at farmers'
markets every week. Dane County Farmers' Market attracts 25,000 people to the Capital
Square in downtown Madison Wisconsin every Saturday. 10,000 people visit the Davis (CA)
Farmers' Market every market day throughout the year. California has over 600 farmers'
markets throughout the state. The San Francisco Bay area has over 100 Farmers' Markets
all by itself. And Los Angeles has recently embarked on a contest to make it the
biggest Farmers' Market community in the country. More markets are opening every week.
This trend will continue.
And finally, the emphasis on health and nutrition brought about through our new
President and First Lady promoting home gardens and farmers' markets is a part of the
solution to the healthcare crises this country faces. Many Americans are asking
themselves "How can I eat more healthfully?"
Becoming more aware of the food that we put into our bodies can keep us strong and help us avoid disease. Years of awareness and healthy eating can prolong life. Knowing that the food you buy at the local farmers' market not only tastes better but is more nutritious, healthy and safer for us makes the expenditure of time and money all the more worthwhile. I don't believe that it will solve our health problems — it is too hard to fight the marketing colossus that Food, Inc. brings to our media every day. But promoting farmers' markets has the potential of keeping us alive and strong. Let's hope so.
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Mike Lee
Publisher
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